From Lhasa to Mohan

Lesley

First I should thank generous Lesley, with his permission I have this chance to travel. Lesley is a handsome Walsh with dreadlock, this hair style made him very attractive in China, which made him very uncomfortable in crowd. The different attitude to uncommon thing in west and east is one lesson Lesley learned in his journey . Hope him can find his nature and peace in the small village of Laos.

Illusion of Holy Land

Most people, especially non-Chinese have unrealistic imagination of Tibet. I think it may lead by mass media, they described Tibet as a pure holy land, all lost good things out there. I should admit, years before like other undeveloped region, old tradition is strong on this land, people have little idea of commercial society. However right now, things changed a lot on this land. Some blame technology, some blame commercial society, most blame China. My explanation is simple, time changed. Like other place in the world, time also affect this holy land. The youth of Tibetan also want big television, Nike sport gear, beautiful and useless things created by modern world. You got more, you lose more, that’s the balance.

Tibet is not barren land, if you travel along the national road you can find people everywhere. If you want a close look to famous viewpoint, you should pay for it, include Mt. Everest. They built the road and built the gate, then you should pay for the convenience they provided.

I know it’s not easy for non-Chinese go to Tibet, and also not cheap. The easier B-plan is Tibetan area out of Tibet. If you just want enjoy the beautiful nature of Tibet, Tibetan area in Sichuan province is another good choice. You can trek around  snow mountain in mountain area, hired local horse ease your burden. This area is totally same as Tibet and most important things is you can travel in this area without any official restriction.

Tashi 1 Restaurant

The best restaurant I have visited in Lhasa is Tashi 1. It’s price is very reasonable, I mean cheap and tasty food. The recommend dish is Yogurt Cake, Fried Dumplings and Bobi with 4 Fruit. You can find it on Zangyiyuan Road, near Beijing East Road.

Canggu Temple Sweet Tea House

When you walk in old town of Lhasa, you can find many tea house in it, and the best one must be the Canggu Temple Sweet Tea House. As its name said, it located near Canggu Temple. The environment is perfect for drinking tea, and the price is amazing cheap, maybe because its mainly customer is local Tibetan.

I know many non-Chinese tourist in Tibet dare not to try Yak Butter Tea. You can see the funny face when you invite them to drink the tea. Tibetan drink salty yak butter tea in the morning and have sweet butter tea in other time. I prefer the sweet one and it is also easily accepted by non-Chinese. If you want try Tibetan tea, drink sweet tea in Canggu Sweet Tea House is a good choice.

Shambala Palace 

Shambala Palace is a beautiful hostel in old town of Lhasa. Really difficult to find because it’s located in a dead end of alley, you can find the detail on their website. The hostel reconstruction from a old Tibetan building once owned by a Tibetan noble, in my words, you can see Tibetan ghost strolling in it at night. You can see Potala Palace on its roof and all decorations are from local Tibetan.

Because it’s an old building, the sound insulation is not good. Fortunately, everyone in this hotel is keeping quiet, maybe because the ghost is watching us :-)

Stone Pot Chicken

Along G318, Sichuan food is the most common food you can find. If you passed Lulang(鲁朗), you can not miss the Stone Pot Chicken. Actually, this dish is also not Tibetan food, some restaurant invent it recent years. The stone pot is from Medog(墨脱),  put Tibetan chicken, local mushroom and other vegetable in it. Believe me, it’s most delicious dish you can have along G318.

4028 Campsite

G318 start from Shanghai, end at Friendship Bridge in Tibet, full length is 5476km. 4028 Campsite is beside the 4028km milestone and is the only campsite along G318. It’s a lovely place, you can see snow mountain from it, yak and horse are the visitors. The campsite owner have a Tibetan pig named Hemei, if you touch it, it would sleep down to enjoy your touch. Another pet, a dog named Dianzang, it would use its nose to scratch you to beg food.

This site provide food, shower, toilet, wifi, charge and camp equip rent service. And they accept foreigners.

Songstam Meili

Songstam Lodges have five lodges in Yunnan Tibetan Area, Songstam Meili is the new found one located near Mt. Meili. All Songstam Lodges are five star standard hotel, the decoration is Tibetan style and staff are very nice. In every room of Songstam Meili, you can see Mt. Meili. You can’t find a better place around Mt. Meili, so why not award yourself in the tough journey?

The room rate of Songstam Meili is between  RMB900 to RMB1600, dinner is RMB 150 per person. They also provide trekking service.

American Style British Guy

In the night of Songstam Meili, there are three guests there. Me, my girlfriend and a British Guy. Except the accent, you can’t find any relationship from him with British. Maybe the reason is he leave Britain since 1997. He worked in a American chain restaurant company, most time in Hongkong, sometime fly to Shanghai for business.

He amazed to see Chinese buy luxury with bags. We made our explanation and tell him the gloomy future of China we worried. As a foreigner worked in China, and not taken English teacher as his job, he has a bright future, his Chinese colleague and friend never tell him real China, he can’t see the dark side of China. When we told him check the citizenship of his Chinese wealthy friend’s family member, who recently move his family from Australia back to China, we see the non-British face again. Chinese are clever. That’s my explanation.

It seems like almost every foreigner has one Classic Foreigner Question. Before ask the question, they always said you have the right refuse answering it. This guy has his own. After I answered it honestly, I though China is most difficult enigma on this world for foreigners, even you live there you also can’t understand it. Then a strange proud fill my heart.

Tiger Leaping Gorge Trekking

It let me dying. As a computer geek, OK, a nerd, I am very proud I spent one and half an hour from Mr. Zhang Hostel to Tiger Leaping Gorge and back. You should know the normal Chinese take two hours. We started too early, not saw the grandma drug dealer who sold weeds to foreigners. What a pity.

Lijiang and Dali

They both are old town. I prefer Lijiang, it’s small and artful, though a little artificial. Dali is different, many local people live in it, so it’s more practical. Maybe Dali is suitable for long-tern stay. But I just passed by, so Lijiang is more attractive. By the way, Lijiang is famous by its nickname Capital of One Night Stand.

Finally, we arrived Mohan, the Chinese border town to Laos. Farewell to Lesley, we back to Chengdu.

My Home-brew Chili Sauce

Chinese people in Sichuan Provivence made their home-brew chili sauce between July and October every year. Below is my recipe.

1.  I choose the pepper grown in Sichuan Province, actually all types of pepper are fine. Wash and dry them in room temptature.

2. Chop them to sauce. I like using knife than machine, that made the sauce more delicious.

3. Mix the sauce with salt. The proportion of sauce and salt is 5:1.

4.(Optional)  Add Chinese prickly ash in the sauce. I know not everyone like it and it may be hard to find, so it’s optional.

5. Add liquor in the sauce. The proportion of sauce and liquor is 25:1.

6. The most important steps came, the best oil in my mind is rape oil, if you can’t find it, use some vegetable oil instead.

7. Prepare a china or glass jar, clean it with boiling water then dry it.

8. Blend the sauce with oil, put them into the jar.

9. Pour oil into the jar, make sure the sauce all are below the surface. The oil isolate the sauce from air, when you get some sauce out make sure the left sauce still soak in the oil.

10. Well done, finally you got the Chinese chili sauce. Put it in a cool and dark place for one week, then you can use it cook Chinese food especially Sichuan Cuisine.

Amazing Mobile APP Le Assistant 360(乐助手360)

Le Assistant 360 is a schedule management app for iPhone and Android. The producer is Lenova, a big Chinese computer manufacturer. The amazing point of this app is its accurate voice recognition. Believe me, you haven’t see any other app can do what this one do. For example,  you speak to the phone, I have a meeting at 10pm tomorrow and before that I should notice everyone in my office,  then you would see new schedule is added, Notice all colleague to attend the meeting at 10pm tomorrow. It totally understand what you said and the processing is very fast. Is there any special high tech of voice recognition in this app? No.

The fact is that behind the Le Assistant 360, there is a real human assistant for you. He or she get what you say and handle the voice info to schedule then send to your app. So if you speak to it using dialect, you also can get the right result. Bazinga!

It’s not April fool’s joke, it’s a real exist app, from a big company. My question is how to protect user’s privacy? And the labor in China is not cheap as before  and will more expensive in future, this app is free right now, when user group is bigger, can it make enough money for its cost?

Some Background of Dream Home

Dream Home is a movie directed by Ho-Cheung Pang. This cult film told us a story of a normal woman did some crazy things for the apartment she dreamed of.

Actually the reality is crazier than the film. Since 1994, the system of dividing taxes lead most tax to the central government of China. Local government have more responsibilities but less money to spend. Some provinces found that they can lend the land to land agent for big profit. Because land in China belongs to Chinese people, so the government can not sell it but lend it. There are people live on the land would be lent. If some family don’t want to move to other place, it’s easy to solve it, as you can see in the movie. The officers and agents hire mobs to force the people move. Self-burning cases happened sometimes.

The Chinese housing price is very high. How high it is? For example, Google spent $1.9 billion bought new office in New York, it’s $6600 per square. And the housing price near second ring of Beijing is almost the same. The average annual salary of Beijing citizen is about $7000 and I think the number of New York is more than that.

There’s circle in Chinese society, government lent the people’s land to business men, business men built apartment and sold them to the people. People spent all the money their family have, from grandparents to parents, and also lent big money they should repay with their whole life from bank. The master of the land became the slave of it, the humble servant of the country stole everything of it. That’s the real story of the Chinese dream home.

Pirate Culture in China

Almost every Chinese use  pirate software and enjoy pirate digit product, from operating system to TV series,  many of them never buy any genuine product. Is this copyright hell is the heaven for users? I don’t think so.

Chinese government use pirate product is not the secret, no company dare sue the government unless they don’t want do business in China anymore. Actually, the pirate behaviors are encouraged by the government in some degree. In the article iPad is Fashion of  People’s Daily, can not install piracy  is the weak point of iPad. You should know the People’s Daily is the most senior media of Communist Party of China, it is the voice of the rulers of China. It explains why though piracy is illegal in China, you still can easily get piracy in China.

Programmers are the most harmed group by piracy, though many of them thought they take much advantage from it because the professional software usually are expensive. Piracy destroy the whole ecosystem of Chinese software industry. No one can make money from selling software. You made a text editor, it’s more powerful than Notepad++ and very close to UltraEdit. You price it for $10, that’s fair enough for such powerful tool, and you can get nothing because users in China can get UltraEdit for free without any punishment. There’s only one version of Windows in China, the Ultimate. It’s a joke, maybe not true but can reflect some reality.

Why Chinese use piracy? I found two main reasons, Price, Information Blockade and Useless Policy.

  • Price

Most Chinese are poor, the dollar based genuine is too expensive for them. However, some rich men also use this as their excuse. I attributed this to that they used steal fortune from others.

  • Information Blockade

Most piracy you can not get it in legal ways, the government forbid import them  for ideology and other reasons. So if you enjoy them, pirating is the only way.

  • Useless Policy

Only fool will spent money on free things. If you can get piracy easily without no punishment, buying genuine is really stupid action in most people’s eyes.

Although I use Linux, freeware and opensource software, I should admit it’s not easy without piracy in China.

Himalayas Tibet-Xinjiang Self-driving Tour 20100510EK

[mappress]

Below is the report from Mr.Sun who lead this 20100510EK group from Zhangmu to Kashgar. 

May 2010 Himalaya Tibet-Xinjiang Summary
Route: Zhangmu- Everest Base – Shigatse – Lhasa – Shigatse – Saga – Paryang – Mt.Kalaish – Shiquanhe (Ger)- Red willow beach – Yecheng – Kashgar
Time: 10th May, 2010 -7th June,2010. Total of 30 days (plus empty back time of tour guides) 

May 20, 2010 Zhangmu
1. Meet Alex and Julian in the Customs(note that due to time difference and the lunch break, Nepal Customs about 3 o’clock in Beijing time that will switch release)
2. For entry clearance, had finished vehicle inspection disinfection procedures.
3. The local immigration office for the temporary travel document (written on the part of the travel sites) 

Accommodation: Caiyuan hotel standard room 380 RMB (3 stars hotel), Manager Nipin 13648926969 0892-8745888 (Generally speaking, Zhangmu port due to its location, accommodation is more expensive, but the guest can also find less expensive hotels, such as the Sherpa,etc.)

Fuel: a gas station

21st May, 2010 -22nd May Zhangmu – Tingri White Dam
1. White Dam to Tingri, over Lulu checkpoints get off of all registered, leaving a copy of the government permits for the self-driving tour in China (This permits should be ask as in-country agency to help apply it 2 or 3 months before the vehicle enter China)
2. Tickets (180RMB/PP, 400 RMB/per vehicle only free drivers, not free for guide) to Everest, again passing inspection, off register, leaving the government permits copy. To the base camp on the way there are two check points, check points the way back Lulu registered off again, and leaving the government permits copy.
Accommodation: Everest Hotel Standard Room 280 RMB/Room. Tel: 0892-8262775 (Note: the town has opened a number of new hotels, such as the white Dam, cheap and good)
Fuel: white dam has gas station

May 23, 2010 White Dam in Tingri – Shigatse
En route visits Sakya Monastery, Tashilhunpo. (Sakya Monastery need travel permits and approvals required to check)
Accommodation: Jiumuyamei four-star hotel, standard room 360 RMB/Room (outside) 320 RMB/Room (within) Tel: 0892-8841040 13908928360 Manager: Jan
Fuel: White Dam, Shigatse has gas stations
Voice-over: Tashilhunpo in, ALEX mysterious smile, “I know where is the Panchen Lama’s bedroom, then move the fingers up, self-confidence to say, look, there are air-conditioned rooms”.

May 24, 2010 Shigatse – Lhasa
1. Morning to the Vehicle Administration for temporary driver’s license and driving permit, and complex procedures. Generally have the following elements: desk application form, certificate hall on the 3rd and the 6th and from the hand over the envelope window, leaving the approval and fill in a form filing number, permit medical personnel, to learn traffic laws, vehicle inspection, and traffic compulsory purchase insurance. Fortunately, many people though Monday, well within the buttoned in a morning.
2. Afternoon, head to Lhasa, there has five speed limits registration stations along the way to Lhasa, driving about 5 hours.
Accommodation: Lhasa Hotel 4 Star 360rmb/rooms (of course, varied selection of Lhasa, is the whole night soak in the nightclub you have no control.)
Oil: Gas stations along the route are

May 25 2010 -5 26 Lhasa
Visit Barhkor street, Jokhang Temple, Potala Palace, rest and repair vehicle, food and equipment procurement to Ali, and so on
Accommodation: Lhasa Hotel 4 Star 360 rooms
Oil: There are many gas stations
Voice-over: hotel front desk younger sister, secretly pulled me excited asked: and your fellow foreigner is a Hollywood star? I said, how clever u are, so low-key surprise was that you saw it, I try to help you get his signature? Ear flew screaming repeatedly. Add, they mean the star is JULIAN, indeed a real person like Feng Xiaogang’s “biggest names” which the name Donald? But JULIAN insist that he is more like George Clooney.

May 27, 2010 Lhasa – Saga
About 10 hours driving, poor road conditions Lazi later before entering Saga city checkpoints
Accommodation: Saga Crescent Hotel standard room 360 RMB/Room Mada 0892-8900078 0892-8202888)

Oil: Lahze Saga both has fuel station.

Voice-over: To search for more comfortable accommodation, the elderly decide to discuss long road to Saga, at last, when arrive in the Crescent Hotel, behind a barracks, prohibition of photography, but I suddenly found that the toilet barracks high visibility ~ ~

May 28, 2010 Saga – Paryang
Road rehabilitation, poor traffic
Accommodation: double room 120 Xixiabangma Hotel Tashi 13989027077
Oil: a gas station Saga
Voice-over: Do not be shocked that the atmosphere of the hotel the word, in fact, that is, a relatively large hotel, relatively clean, no shower.

May 29, 2010 Paryang – Mt.Kalaish

Visit the holy lake Manasarovar Lake, Mt.Kalaish
Road rehabilitation, road conditions poor, to Baga asphalt after all.
Mt.Kalaish endorsement travel points, 50 Yuan/person
Accommodation: North Sichuan Hotel (recommended) Double 240 yuan 0897-2607019 13638970235
Oil: no gas stations
Voice-over: In the face of Kailash Mansarovar, cautious ALEX finally agreed to hand the flag NAVO photographed, and a few unsuccessful publicity photos was born.

May 30, 2010 Mt.Kalaish – Shiquanhe (Ger)

Here are checkpoints along the way
Accommodation: Shiquanhe Hotel standard room 220 Yuan Cirenpingcuo 13,989,976,099
Oil: Shiquanhe can refuel
Voice-over: the internet café, proprietress for a harmonious, tightly stood, watching the two foreigners visit the website. Finally, she found, are even more noteworthy is that Internet cafes have been a man shouting into their cell phone, how on Jiangsu TV’s “You Are the One,” as long as half an hour.

May 31, 2010 Shiquanhe – Red willow Beach
Accommodation: DAZHOU Hotel double room 60-100 Yuan 13,369,988,619
Oil: Ritu & Red willow beach (existing in the flow of oil filling stations) has gas stations
Voice-over: In Red willow Beach “hotel” JULIAN found air-dried rat, he danced for joy, excitement, flew into a photo and send it to his daughter from childhood fear of mice.

June 1, 2010 Red willow Beach – Yecheng
There are checkpoints along the way
Accommodation: Dianli hotel standard room 100 Yuan 0998-7289800
Oil: Yecheng a gas station

June 2, 2010 Yecheng – Kashgar
Accommodation: Yambu hotel standard room 240 Yuan 0998-2588888
Oil: a gas station in Kashi

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Editors’ Rebellion of SFW

SFW(Science Fiction World) is the oldest and biggest SF magazine in China, and also is the unique one. I have read it since my twelve and left it from 3 years ago because I can’t find the feelings I have before. Two days ago, a post wrote by anonymity in SFW group on Douban.com declared he behalf of all the editors in this magazine and they want fire the chief editor Li Chang(李昶) because the different attitude to the magazine between them. In this post, Li Change just want make money from the magazine regardless of  the quality. The editors love the magazine and they are afraid the irresponsible action would ruin the 30 years old magazine, so they post this open letter.

I have nothing to say, present china like a science fiction world. Google.cn leaves China mainland today, more than one hundred children get disability or died led by inferior vaccinum in Shan Xi province,duststorm invade China and five provinces in southwestern China suffered from drought.

vaccinum

Bye, Google.

I am glad to see that Google want quit China mainland, because google.cn is just shame but nothing. For the potential big market, Google forgot its Don’t be Evil. Although there is big possibility this decision is also led by money, at least it needn’t give in to the Chinese government.

I am a big fan of Google and at the same time I almost use all the product of Google, I cannot without Gmail and Reader for a day. Maybe after Google left China, the .com domain would be blocked and we cannot use Gmail and other product, it will be a disaster for Chinese university and scientist. For me, it force me to use Tor and other proxy tools, and maybe buy a VPN account. That’s quite not convenience, it make me realize we back to the Qing Dynasty, in that period, the rulers blocked China from the world.

We can’t access YouTube.

We can’t access Facebook.

We can’t access Twitter.

We can’t access blogspot.

Is google.com the next?

[Board Game]The Battle among Three Kingdom

Board game is not popular in China. Most players are young people who like to receive new idea. It’s just fun of minorities. Now the things seem to change because The Battle among Three Kingdom appeared.

In Chinese history, there was some game like the board game we played today. The Picture of Be A More Powerful Officer (升官图) is one of them. In this game, the only target in this game is get the top of the ancient Chinese government architecture.

The Picture of Be A More Powerful Officer

The Picture of Be A More Powerful Officer

The Battle among Three Kingdom is more like a modern board game. Actually it definitely inspired by a famous board game Bang!. The cowboy is replaced by historical character in the Three Kingdom period after Han Dynasty of China. The  creator added many roleplay elements in the game, every character has their own skills which are fit their background in history.

The Battle among Three Kingdom

The Battle among Three Kingdom

It’s popular in Chinese youth, and it make more and more people know the board game and many board game bar opened in major cities of China. Although the group of board game players is still very small in China, I and my friends can enjoy the fun of it.

In Memory of Yang Jia

Last year on this day, a man is executed in China.[wiki]

He is a murderer who killed 6 Shanghai police officers in police station. He is a hero who shined glory at last time of his short life.

Today is Thanks Giving Day in western world, I don’t know how many Chinese would remenber him, I know there should be some and I’am one of them.

I don’t belive violence could make a better world, but I hold strong belief that violence is a useful tool forces tyrants choose gentle reformers’ oppion. Yang Jia is the one makes tyrants know we Chinese also can fight back when we being humiliated, if there’s no justice we also can find our own justice.

Graffiti of Yang Jia in Beijing

Graffiti of Yang Jia in Beijing

Graffiti of Yang Jia in Beijing

Graffiti of Yang Jia in Beijing